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Haworthia Succulents: The Hardest Succulent to Kill!

Haworthia Succulents: The Hardest Succulent to Kill!

Haworthia is a succulent from the same family as aloe, which are much more significant, but they share many visual similarities. There are approximately 160 species. Haworthia succulents are a large and various genus of plants in the Asphodelaceae family, subfamily Asphodelaceae, and tribe Aloeae.

Instead of growing up or out, these plants prefer to stay small and produce pups or babies as their early growth.

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    Most haworthia varieties have striking vertical spiky succulent leaves packed together and in tight rosettes. The variety’s spots and coloring vary greatly, but all varieties are easy to care for!
    Vary based on your climate; they can be grown indoors or outdoors. If you live in a colder climate, you may want to grow them inside during the winter. If you live somewhere that has mild winters, it’s best to leave them outside all year.

    The Haworthia is native to South Africa and Namibia, where it thrives in rocky areas shaded by bushes and grasses. The plants are frequently marketed as cacti. They’re not cacti, but they’re succulents.


    Flowers emerge from the center of the rosette. The flowers are small, but there are often many of them, up to 50 on each inflorescence. Flowers, like leaf shapes and types, differ significantly from one another.

    In July and August, Haworthia rests for about eight weeks. Above-ground growth has stopped. In the earth, the roots are renewed. They do this by utilizing the substance of the old root. The plants can also be hydroponically grown, but we suggest using pots with drainage holes.

    Haworthia Care: All You Need to Know About This Tough Succulent

    Haworthia succulents are a wide and diversified genus of the Asphodelaceae, subfamily Asphodelaceae, and tribe Aloeae. They are near relatives of aloe plants, often considerably larger—but they share many visual characteristics.

    These plants often remain tiny, producing pups or offspring as their primary source of growth (instead of growing up or out). Most haworthia types feature distinctive vertical spiky succulent leaves grouped in tight rosettes. The markings and coloration vary greatly according to the type, but all are incredibly easy to care for!

    It is not difficult to care for the haworthia. You simply must exercise caution when watering. Excessive water consumption is harmful. The roots, which are frequently fleshy, rot quickly.

    Under no circumstances should you overwater. Usually, a sip of water once a week is sufficient and even less in the winter.

    When it comes to fertilizer, people have different perspectives. Some hobby breeders advise against fertilizing because it alters growth, while others regularly advise using a weak cactus fertilizer.

    The best thing you can do is try this out for yourself; that way, you’ll know exactly what you’re looking for. Apart from that, there isn’t much to do.

    Wintering goes off without a hitch. The less water the plants require, the better the winter.

    Propagation is simple; the plants usually do it for you. You only need to separate the pups and replant them. Overall, the Haworthia is a hardy and low-maintenance plant.

    Why is the genus Haworthia so mystifying?

    These little cuties are native to southern Africa, specifically the southwestern Cape. However, the genus Haworthia is little understood. When you start researching what type of haworthia plant you have and discover that plants that seem the same have different names, you’ll immediately recognize this.

    Here’s why: Because amateurs dominate the taxonomy of the genus, the literature on haworthia is lacking. Many haworthia species were transferred to the haworthiopsis and tulista genuses in 2013. This coincides with the most recent update of The Plant List, which listed 150 haworthia species.

    People have had a tough time identifying and distinguishing these small suckers. The lack of adequate information about haworthia is exacerbated by the fact that several types seem very similar. So I’ll do my best to explain the many varieties as I understand them.


    The location is important for a Haworthia to feel at ease. It should not be too sunny, either outside or inside. The plants much better tolerate shade. My Howarthia is in the north window. It only gets a few little suns in the morning, but it thrives there. There are, however, some species and varieties that prefer more sun.

    • A bright, partially shaded location.
    • In the summer, it prefers to be outside. Avoids direct sunlight, which causes the leaves to shrink.
    • Morning and evening sun are usually tolerated without issue.
    • When moving outdoors, gradually acclimate to the sun.
    • A rain-protected location is preferable.
    • The average temperature in the room
    • Avoid allowing heat to accumulate behind window panes.
    • It is preferable to place it in the east or west window.
    • In the winter, it is cooler, but it is also very bright.
    • Additional lighting is advantageous.


    It is advantageous in the case of the plant substrate if it is a mineral. To avoid waterlogging, the soil must be porous. Drainage holes in the planter are advantageous. This allows excess water to drain away easily. You should avoid heavy soils!

    • A combination of sharp sand and loose, coarse compost soil (1: 3)
    • Loose\sPermeable
    • There is no clay or peat.
    • A mineral substrate is advantageous (pumice, lava gravel, expanded shale, coarse sand)

    What kind of light do haworthia succulents require?

    These plants, being succulents, prefer higher light levels and lower water levels. If you’re growing haworthia plants indoors, strong indirect light is ideal. They can, however, take medium light extremely well. These plants grow in the shade or semi-shadow in their natural habitat (under bushes or overhangs, etc.).

    You may place those in various lighting settings; some even get direct sunshine via a window for the day. They’ve all done very well. However, any plant should be introduced to any level of bright direct light gradually. If you don’t, the foliage may burn up.

    Haworthia succulent Repotting and Propagation

    When it comes to planting or repotting, there isn’t much to think about. The substrate must be suitable. It is recommended that the Haworthia be repotted regularly, about every other year. Plants stay in the ground longer and thrive for me. It all depends on the type. Mine appears to be a challenge.

    • Place in shallow containers.
    • Planting in groups is beneficial.
    • Repot in the early Spring, at the start of the growing season.
    • Always clean up any dead leaves.
    • If the rosettes cover the entire surface of the soil, use the larger vessel.
    • In general, however, it is best to repot every year or every two years because you should remove the old roots to avoid rot.

    You won’t have to repot your haworthia plant too often. They prefer to remain comfortable in their pots. However, as your healthy plant develops new baby plants over time, it will outgrow its container.

    Repotting in Spring is an excellent time to prune and propagate haworthia!
    Cut an offset from the mother plant with clean scissors or a clean knife. Include as much of the set as you can; this is where the new roots will emerge. Allow the offset’s cut end to dry for a day or two. You can simply place those on a windowsill for a few days.

    Plant in a small container filled with succulent soil. When the soil dries out, please give it a little more water than usual to allow the roots to develop.

    After a few weeks, gently tug on the cutting to see if it has begun to root. Once it has begun to root, gradually reduce watering to maintain appropriate water levels for a haworthia. 

    Watering and Fertilizing

    Moisture, as with all succulents, is far more damaging to the Haworthia than dryness. Before such a plant can dry out, it must first stand dry for an extended period. However, if the soil is excessively wet, it will swiftly kill it. The roots will decompose. When the plant’s stores (leaves) are depleted, it can no longer absorb water. Despite being a succulent plant, the Haworthia does not tolerate prolonged drought.

    • During the main growing season, which lasts from April to November, water evenly.
    • Allow the soil’s top layer to dry slightly between waterings.
    • In July and August, only spray the plants with water – this is their resting period.
    • In the winter, there is significantly less water.
    • Never pour between the leaves, i.e., in the rosette, as this increases the risk of rot.
    • Every month, fertilize with diluted succulent and cactus fertilizer.

    Water these plants only as necessary. Overwater will cause root rot and eventually destroy them. Too little water may cause some shriveling, or it may cause the leaves to turn purple and crimson. Water when the soil dries out to help your haworthia plants be the happiest. For me, that’s around once every 1.5 weeks during the summer and once a month during the winter.


    Haworthia does not require pruning. All that remains is to remove the dried-up leaves. Of course, if you need a leaf or a pup for propagation, you can take a cutting. Otherwise, you should refrain from snipping at the plants.


    Wintering is rarely a problem. Again, it is critical not to overwater the plants, especially when they are cool or cold, as they do not require a lot of water. Standing water or constantly damp soil causes rot, which the Haworthia cannot tolerate. In this case, you must proceed with extreme caution. Most of the time, less is more.

    • Winter temperatures range from 5 to 15°C.
    • Some species are surprisingly cold tolerant.
    • It is also possible to overwinter at temperatures ranging from 16 to 18°C.
    • The warm living room is unsuitable.
    • The lighter the plants require in the winter, the warmer they are.
    • The plant may grow lights will be required.


    Haworthia Propagation is simple. There are numerous options. In theory, it is very simple to propagate plants through offsets, leaf cuttings, or seeds.

    • Haworthia propagation via offsets

    If offsets (pups) have well-established roots, you can simply cut them off. You can then directly plant them in a new container.

    If the separated shoots have not yet formed roots, the piece is allowed to dry for three days before being pressed into a new plant substrate. They establish themselves quickly.

    • Haworthia propagation via leaf cuttings

    Propagating Haworthia from leaf cuttings takes a little more time and effort. You do this by removing a leaf from the plant. Allow it to sit for a few days to allow the cut surface to dry.

    The leaf is then placed flat in a potting soil-filled container. Maintain an equal layer of moisture on the substrate while avoiding getting it soaked. Place the container somewhere bright but not too warm.

    After a few weeks, the leaf-cutting should have roots. Then you can treat it like an adult Haworthia.

    • Haworthia seed propagation

    It is also possible and simple to grow plants from seeds. However, there are no single-variety plants in general. You’ll never truly be able to get out of it.

    • As seed soil, very fine mineral pumice is suitable.
    • It can be sown all year at temperatures ranging from 15 to 20°C.
    • Overheating is bad, and it will stop the germination process.
    • The germination capacity is limited. The seeds have a one-year shelf life.

    Pests and Diseases

    Diseases are uncommon. When a plant dies, it is usually due to a lack of water.

    Pests include root insects, mealybugs, and scale insects. However, these are frequently difficult to locate. They conceal themselves in the leaf rosettes or the soil. As a result, it is critical to inspect the plants regularly. You can combat the pests using standard methods.

    The browning of Haworthia is a common issue.

    Brown leaves are the most common problem with Haworthia. This is frequently caused by overwatering, which causes the roots to rot and, as a result, the leaves to turn brown. It could also be due to water getting into the plant’s rosette, causing it to rot. So water with caution!

    Do you have brown leaves on your Haworthia? Take them out! A small tug on the leaf will often cause it to come loose from the plant. Otherwise, use a clean, sharp knife to remove the leaf.

    Temperature, humidity, and fertilizer

    Haworthia succulents can withstand all standard household temperatures and humidity conditions. They perform admirably in dry indoor air. Keep these plants in areas where the temperature does not fall below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In the summer, you can also give them cactus fertilizer.

    What are some common varieties and Care of haworthia Succulents?

    We’ll go through a few of the haworthia types. These are also some of the more popular and widely available kinds. In the late Spring and summer, any big box garden store will have a wonderful range of haworthia, while local nurseries may have some of the rarer varieties. Whatever the variety, haworthia care procedures are essentially consistent.

    Care for Haworthia Fasciata (aka zebra plant succulent or striped succulent).

    Haworthia fasciata, sometimes known as the Zebra plant succulent or striped succulent, is one of the most popular haworthia kinds. This species is also known as haworthiopsis attenuata and haworthia attenuata. It features spiky dark green leaves with elevated bright white “stripes.”

    This cultivar grows quite a little, reaching only about a half foot in height. It can grow to be more than a half-foot broad by creating new baby rosettes that spread. I have a beautiful zebra haworthia plant that has developed gently over time.

    Care for Haworthia Attenuata (also aka zebra plant succulent or striped succulent)

    Haworthia attenuata is often known as the striped succulent or the zebra plant succulent. It is also known as haworthiopsis attenuata. Yes, I told you it was perplexing. Because they look so similar, both of these kinds are known as zebra plant haworthias.

    The main distinction between fasciata and attenuata is that fasciata has relatively smooth interior leaves, whereas attenuata does not. 

    Care for Haworthia Coarctata (also known as coarctata, a spiky succulent)

    This type has more solid leaves and grows a little taller and spikier. Mine is green, but I recently spotted a gorgeous, almost black one at the home of a neighbor. She claimed she’d kept it for a long time; it began as a single rosette and has grown in size over the years. She generously offered me a cutting.

     It has also grown in size over time. You can divide it into two pots, and both new plants will produce many pups the following season. You’ll like it because it’s easy to grow and grows up straight.

    Haworthia Mirabilis Care

    The haworthia mirabilis cultivar has a distinct appearance. It isn’t as spiky as the other varieties I’ve mentioned, and its colors aren’t as vibrant. Instead, its leaves are shorter, chunkier, and more succulent-looking, with a paler green hue. Almost transparent in appearance.

    The variation seen below is the Haworthia mirabilis mandala, which I have in a little pot. Because this is a slow-growing species, it works well in little pots or recycled items such as teacup planters.

    Haworthia Cooperi Care

    This haworthia variation resembles the mirabilis variety more than the zebra varieties. It contains densely packed green rosettes with a translucent hint. 

    You can buy it from a local farmer’s market, but you’ve to learn about the dangers of overwatering plants. Unfortunately, you can kill this plant by giving it too much affection in the form of water. It still saddens me because this was such a beautiful plant!

    Care for Haworthia limifolia (aka fairy washboard succulent)

    The fairy washboard succulent, Haworthia limifolia has more subdued patterns and bigger leaves. The leaves also are slightly wider, especially around the plant’s base.

    More Types of Haworthia Succulents

    This plant has numerous subgenera and species.

    Haworthia Angustifolia

    has stemless, sprouting, lanceolate, pointed, thin, and often slack leaves that form a rosette, finely serrated edges, and white to pale pink flowers.

     Haworthia Attenuata –

    This is an excellent example of a Haworthia. It has tiny spikes along the edges of each leaf, creating a nice striped effect. Stemless triangular leaves sprouting to the tip form a rosette with a rough leaf surface and raised warts.

    Haworthia Coarctata

     is a stem-forming, sprouting rosette of upright but inwardly curved leaves interesting plant with brownish-green leaf blades. 

    Haworthia Fasciata –

    A rosette of stemless, sprouting, upright growing pointed leaves. Rough leaf surface, warty leaf underside The white horizontal stripes on the green leaves are distinguishing features.

    Haworthia Bolusii –

    Stemless, slowly sprouting, internally curved, extended lanceolate leaves forming a rosette, bluish-green leaf blade, thorns on leaf margin, and leaf keel.

    Haworthia Cuspidata –

    stemless, springing, thickly leafed rosettes, soft gray-green leaves with rough, spiky edges, obovate, wedge-shaped, extremely short, and about the same length as thick.

    Haworthia Margaritifera

    has a very short trunk, producing triangular-ovoid, coarse, dark green leaves that create a rosette and a very short trunk. White warts that are thickly clustered on the leaves are distinctive.

    Haworthia Reinwardtii –

    very varied in appearance, many variations and forms. For example, stem-like leaf rosette leaves stretch out upright or inwardly curved, coarse leaf surface, blue-green leaves with plain white lumps.

    Haworthia Chloracantha –

    growing stemless leaves, hard to rough, very light green, short and thick, patterned leaf surface, thorns on leaf edges, and huge thorn on leaf keel.

    Haworthia Nigra –

    stem-forming, slowly growing, upright, bowed back, expanding, ovate-triangular leaves forming a rosette, blackish to gray-green leaf blades, harsh leaf surface with warts.

    Haworthia Venosa

     is stemless and gradually sprouting, curved, ovate-triangular leaves forming a rosette, tightly coiled leaf surface, and warty leaf underside.

    Haworthia Emelyae –

    rarely sprouting, stemless, leaves truncated, pointed, hardly translucent, forming a loose rosette, dark green, lined leaf surface with small scattered spots and indistinct raised warts. 

    Haworthia Viscosa –

    Trunk-forming, sprouting, expanding, three rows of triangular leaves on the stalk, unusual appearance, rough leaf surface The leaf tips expand and pier the ground.

    Haworthia Truncata –

    stemless, slowly sprouting, abruptly truncated leaves, arranged in two rows on the shoot, dark gray-green with flat, semi-translucent end surfaces, rough leaf surface with tiny warts, peculiar appearance.

    Haworthia Cristata

    It’s always exciting to try new things. This haworthia, on the other hand, is ideal for beginners who wish to learn how to care for succulents. It grows swiftly and easily, and it’s quite cheap.

    Haworthia Suaveolens

    Another beginner-friendly option, this variety has soft pinkish-purple leaves. It’s ideal for those living in areas where temperatures drop below freezing.

    Haworthia Striatula

    This is one of the smallest Haworthia types. It’s ideal for tiny places. It also features dark brown patches that give it some personality.

    Haworthia Caerulea

    This is one of my personal favorites. It has gorgeous deep burgundy colored leaves that contrast beautifully against the lighter background.

    Haworthia Fimbriata

    This is another one of our favorites. It has lovely pale lavender-colored leaves that turn vibrant magenta in autumn.

    Haworthia Chilensis

    This is yet another one of our favorites! It has stunning lime green leaves that change to brilliant gold in late summer. 

     Haworthia Parviflora

    This is an attractive-looking variety. It has thick stems covered in short hairs. This helps them retain moisture during dry spells.

    Haworthia Lancifolia

    This is an excellent choice for people who like to grow unusual types of plants. It has unique heart-shaped leaves that look almost like petals.

    Haworthia Flava

    This is a favorite amongst many gardeners. It has enormous glossy red-orange leaves that you can find throughout Spring and summer.

    Haworthias come in so many colors, shapes, sizes, and textures. There are even some that produce edible fruits! If you’re interested in learning more about your options, check out our article choosing the best Haworthia.

    Concerns about Haworthia Succulents

    Because haworthia care is so simple, you will have no problems with your plants over time. They are extremely tough and resistant to pest infestations. Pale leaves may indicate that the plant requires more nitrogen or that it is receiving too much sunlight. They have not been proven to be toxic to pets.

    Is it true that the brightly colored succulents are real?

    That’s a resounding NO! These succulents are frequently haworthia plants that have been painted. This color will not be retained by new growth, and covering a paint in the plant is not good for it. Please do not purchase these, even if the unicorn planters are adorable.


    The Haworthia is simple to maintain. It dazzles with its varied appearance, as well as the variety of shapes and colors. They’re fascinating plants, and many plant enthusiasts have turned into collectors who can’t get enough of them. They purchase, sell, and breed until no more fresh specimens can be added. I’m not necessarily a fan of the genus, but there are some lovely varieties. However, it also fails for me due to the lack of space and excessive sunlight. Nonetheless, We can only recommend Haworthia as decorative, low-maintenance, and grateful. She only dislikes too much water, heat, and midday sun; otherwise, she has no complaints.

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